We recently embarked on a 15-day trip to Morocco with Intrepid Travel’s Best of Morocco Tour. It’s been awhile since we’ve joined an organized tour group for fear of being hauled away like cattle in huge buses from tourist spots to carpet shops. But after doing some research, we were convinced of Intrepid’s promise and philosophy of traveling close to the ground – local transportation (when possible), local eats, local accommodations, and local hangouts. It was a good combination of experiential travel and good trip planning and organization.
So with great discounts on airfare and the trip price itself, we set off for North Africa and got ready to experience Moroccan Moments that will last a lifetime.
1. Marvel at the colossal Hassan II Mosque.
Completed in 1993, the Hassan II Mosque has the world’s tallest minaret and is the fifth largest mosque. It sits by a promontory right by the Atlantic Ocean and can accommodate up to 25,000 worshippers in the main hall and another 80,000 in the outside courtyards. It has a retractable roof that opens up, allowing the faithful to pray under the daytime sky or the evening stars.
Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca
Inside the mosque with the roof closed
Inside the mosque, as the roof starts to open
The top of the minaret seen through the open roof
2. Wander around the Roman ruins of Volubilis.
Volubilis, founded in the 3rd century B.C. was an important and one of the most remote outpost of the Roman Empire. It was abandoned around the year 280 AD when the neighboring Berber tribes reclaimed the area. Many remnants of its elegant buildings and fine houses remain to this day.
Volubilis
Roman columns at Volubilis, occasionally occupied by storks’ nests
Mosaic tiled floor
Doorway
3. Take in the sights and smells of the century-old leather tannery in Fes.
The Chouara tannery is one of the ancient tanneries still in operation in the city of Fes. Following age-old traditions, animal hides are first soaked in a mixture of cow or donkey urine, water, and salts to break down the tough leather, loosen excess fat, flesh, and hair that remain on them. After a two to three-day soak, tanners remove excess hair fibers and fat in order to prepare the hides for dyeing. The hides are then soaked in another set of vats containing a mixture of water and ammonia-rich pigeon poop. Ammonia is a softening agents that allows the hides to absorb the dye. The tanner then uses his bare feet to knead the hides for up to three hours to achieve the desired softness.
Chouwara Tannery in Fes
Working in the tanneries is backbreaking work. The scent can be quite overpowering especially in the summer heat.
People have been washing, coloring and treating animal hides for over a century here in Fes.
4. Receive gracious hospitality and sumptuous food at a local home in Fes.
One of the highlights of our trip was the opportunity to sample home-cooked meals and street food with our local guide. In Fes, Karima welcomed us to her home where they also run a small restaurant. I apologize for not having photos of the most amazing Chicken Bastilla – it was devoured immediately.
Beautiful door beckons
Dinner in a family room in Fes
Starters. No photos of main course – it was consumed upon sight.
Intricate ceiling took Karima’s brother three years to complete
5. Experience local life at the Berber village of Bremmen.
In between Fes and our Sahara camp in Erg Chebbi, we stopped at a lovely auberge (inn) in Midelt. Before dinner, we had the chance to walk around the village of Bremmen. Little children peeked out of their earthen adobe houses. Young ladies were bringing up water from the stream. While taking photos of the adult locals was discouraged, the men and women we encountered were friendly and always ready with a warm greeting of “Salam.”
Berber children at their home, snacking
The homes in Bremmen are built in the traditional Berber way with adobe
A grazing donkey
Waiting for spring awakening
The lovely stream where the locals get their water
6. Watch the sun set and rise in the Sahara desert and lay under the stars in between.
The mighty and majestic Sahara desert was a sight to behold. While some of the towns that we had been traversing through to get to the sand dunes were technically within the Western Sahara region, there was still nothing quite like gazing at the wide expanse of sand. We stored our luggage at an inn and made our way into Erg Chebbi before the sun set. Our caravan stopped on top of a little hill as we saluted the retreating sun. In the morning, we ambled out of our tents to welcome the rising sun.
The Sahara’s colors at sunset
The sun sets on the Sahara
Riding into the sunset
Sahara nights
Ali, Youssef and Mustafa provided campfire music with Berber drums and instruments.
Sahara sunrise
7. Trek the sand dunes of Erg Chebbi on a camel.
Riding a camel in the Sahara desert was one of those bucket-list experiences that stays with you. No, I’m not just talking about the soreness that can come after a hour of riding these gentle creatures up and down the sand dunes. Sitting atop a camel while gazing out in the barren wilderness of the Sahara can be a spiritual experience for those who allow the ethereal beauty of the moment to take over.
Chilling out before the trek
Camel trekkers enter the Sahara at Erg Chebbi. In the foreground in a small lake from a once-in-a-decade rainfall.
The caravan’s sunset shadows
Happy camel riders
Caravan led by our Tuareg guide
To be continued ….
Thank you for the detailed posts about your trip. I am about to book the same tour with Intrepid for January as a solo female traveler and was wondering if you have any advice? Things you wish you knew before you went, anything you would have done differently or wish you would have done in your free time outside of the optional tours?
I was also curious about the transport/accommodations and if the travel days seemed long?
Thanks!
Hi Erin,
Sorry for the late reply – I had spotty internet in Costa Rica. I had a phenomenal time on this tour with Intrepid. I went with my husband but there was a solo female traveler from the UK with our group and she seemed to have fantastic time!
As for advice: arrive in Casablanca a day or even half a day early and stay an extra 1-2 days in Marrakech at the end, if you want to explore these cities more. Casablanca and Marrakech are quite gritty and can be confusing and chaotic. I’d definitely want to have someone to go with when going around these two cities. The other places are more slower-paced.
Intrepid’s Trip Notes are comprehensive and well written – definitely use them.
If I had the time, I’d go up on my own to Chefchaouen.
Travel time may at times feel long but the scenery is lovely, the rides are comfortable and are a good downtimes to decompress. Having good company is also a huge plus.
Overall, I enjoyed the itinerary. Our guide Youssaf did a fantastic job – I’d definitely recommend to let your guide know what your interests and priorities are so he/she can make recommendations.
Recommended reading: The Caliph’s House (light read, humorous and a good intro to Moroccan culture)
Take the next couple of months to research and read up, to see what lines up with your personal interests and travel style.
Cheers!
Hi, I am thinking of doing this same trip! Can you speak to the quality and cleanliness of the accomodations? Do you remember where you stayed?
Hi JC,
I highly recommend it. Youssaf was our guide and was absolutely fantastic! We met another guide along the way and got the impression that Intrepid really makes a point of hiring really great guides.
On accommodations: after reading the Trip Notes, I managed my expectations on quality and cleanliness, and was generally satisfied. They all reflected a sense of Morocco – whether it was in the cities, towns or in the more rural areas. I’ll write back again later with the list of places and more specific comments.
Cheers!
we are travelling independently but would love to visit your guides restaurant. Are you allowed to give us the details so we can eat there? thanks in advance.